Whenever I crave to get away from the hustle of the city and immerse myself in the ambiance of quintessential Japan without spending too much time on a train, I more often than not gravitate towards Yanesen. This well-preserved neighborhood in east Tokyo exudes shitamachi vibes and has the quaintest atmosphere. It all started as a farm village specializing in Yanaka ginger, but gradually the area turned into a developed neighborhood awash with centuries-old temples and shrines, low-rise wooden houses with flowerpots at their front doors, hidden culinary gems, cycling shiny happy people with their cute little dogs, artisanal handiwork shops and welcoming cat-loving residents. It doesn’t get more atmospheric than this.

Yanesen is not exactly off the beaten path, but somehow seems to remain more popular among local tourists and for the most part retains a serenity of the untapped locale. Located in the east of Ueno Park in Taito…